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Don't Eat That Corn, Starving Zambians (Read 241 times)
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Don't Eat That Corn, Starving Zambians
Aug 22nd, 2002 at 3:47am
 
Immoral maize
Hugh Russell unveils the recipe for nshima, and the cause of Zambia's impending famine: Aug 17, 2002, www.spectator.co.uk


Unless you're suffering a severe attack of compassion-fatigue, you'll know that famine is with us again, and this time it's happening right here on my doorstep, in southern Africa. Food stocks officially ran out in Zambia last Thursday, much to the admitted surprise of our vice-president, the Honourable Enoch Kavindele, who said rather plaintively that the government had thought the stocks would last a little longer, but they hadn't. Shame. 

Help is at hand. The United States and Canada have offered Zambia several zillion tons of food for free. But wait just one cassava-picking minute - there's a snag. Yes, they're offering us maize. Yes, that's what we need. But ...it's genetically modified maize!

Ha! Oh no, you don't, Uncle Sammy! Some of our politicians are sharp enough to realise that GM food is, of course, part of a cunning neocolonialist plot to destabilise decent African countries by weakening our physical condition, robbing us of our manhood and making the potholes in the road even deeper and more numerous.

Our redoubtable President, Levy Mwanawasa, has refused to allow this maize to be distributed to the starving until he can be sure that it's safe. No doubt he's seen the video footage of protests against GM food in the UK. Two or three hundred muzungus in green anoraks trampling over fields in Norfolk can't be wrong, can they?

Instead he's called a conference to debate the issue. This conference is taking place as I write, in our splendid Mulungushi International Conference Centre, where delegates will undoubtedly be provided with mid-morning coffee and biccies, lunch, mid-afternoon tea and biccies, and din-dins.

While the conference confers, children in the drought-stricken villages of the worst-hit regions will sit down to meals of rats, roots and other rubbish, and shortly you can confidently expect to see television pictures of Zambian kiddies with those tell-tale swollen bellies.

The country needs maize, and it needs it badly. Without maize there can be no mealie meal, and without mealie meal there can be no ‘nshima' - our national dish. Cue, once again, vice-president Enoch Kavindele.

I'm rather fond of Enoch. He cuts an endearing figure as he blunders around the Lusaka political arena, one step ahead of his harassed press officer, spraying misguided and ill-chosen remarks like an African John Prescott. This time he came up with a vintage Enochism. Zambians, he announced, should diversify their diet. They should eat potatoes or rice or pasta instead of nshima.

That might sound reasonable to European ears. To appreciate just how ludicrously unreal a suggestion it is, you need to understand the place of nshima in our society and culture. The truth is, if you sit a hungry Zambian down in front of smoked trout, steak au poivre, French fries, crème caramel and a decent Stilton, he may eat it. But afterwards he will look up and say, ‘Fine. Now, where's the nshima?'

To a Zambian, nshima means more than his daily bread, more even than the bread of heaven. It means more than a full rice bowl does to a Chinese peasant. It means more than a sack of spuds does to Paddy O'Gob from Ballykisselbow. Nshima to a Zambian means everything. It is food. It is medicine. It is comfort and security. It is a remedy for loneliness, it is a celebration of family life, it is a refuge in time of trouble, it is a hangover cure. It is literally the stuff of life. In Zambia we eat nshima for breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea, and as a midnight snack. Our idea of a change from nshima is more nshima. Our idea of a varied diet is nshima on two different plates.

What is it? To make nshima, you take cobs of maize, strip the kernels from the cobs and grind them into a fine whitish powder, known as mealie meal. Then you cook it in boiling water, and it is in the cooking that the mystique of nshima begins. Actually, all the nshima cook does is boil the stuff. But she - note, always ‘she'; this is Africa, man! - she stirs it with a special stick. An nshima stick. All right, it's actually only a long wooden spoon - long, because as nshima comes to the boil it spits at you - but it's a special stick, nonetheless. Eventually the mixture thickens and is scooped out on to a large plate, where it lies in thick, glutinous heaps, looking for all the world like mashed potato.

Only the very hungry eat it on its own. Otherwise it is always eaten with something else; that something else being known as ‘relish'. If you're well off, your relish might be meat with gravy. If not, perhaps kapenta - tiny dried fish with a strangely pungent smell. In the worst-case scenario - that is, if you are one of the 85 per cent of Zambians who live in extreme poverty - your relish will be a few edible leaves, plucked from the garden or the bush, and cooked up with onion and tomato.

But the important thing is the nshima. And the next important thing is how you eat the stuff. Yes, you've guessed. Those who live hand-to-mouth eat hand-to-mouth. You use your fingers. The skilled Zambian nshima-eater - and there is no such thing as an unskilled Zambian nshima-eater - takes a small portion of nshima, rolls it deftly into a ball in the palm of his hand, dunks it into whatever relish is going and pops it delicately into his mouth. If a naive European takes a knife and fork to it, every Zambian within a hundred yards will pee himself laughing. I know. I was that European.

And what does it taste like, after all this? Well, there you have me. To my palate ...nothing. Nothing I can put my finger, or fingers, on. Nshima is so bland, so ‘pappy', so hopelessly uninteresting, so eternally boring that I find I lose my appetite just thinking about it. But we need it. We've got to have it. It's what we eat. So why, you may be forgiven for asking, don't we grow enough of it?

Drought, says the government. Bollocks, say the critics. They point out that Zambia is a country riddled with rivers, studded with gushing boreholes. The government apparently reckons on two crops of maize a year. My gardener, who should obviously be the Zambian minister of agriculture, produces three with ease. This year's third crop is currently as high as - oh, as an elephant's eye. (Or would be, if we had an elephant to measure against it, but we ate most of our elephants years ago, too. With nshima, of course.)

Common sense tells us that all it would take for Zambia to be self-sufficient in its favourite food is a little forward planning - the same forward planning that would have told vice-president Enoch that the country was running out of food stocks long before last Thursday. But forward planning, like mealie meal, we don't have. And soon you'll see the pictures of the kids in the villages, lying in the dust, too weak to flick the flies from their faces.

It's not only genetically modified maize our country needs. It's some genetically modified politicians.

Reproduced from:
http://www.spectator.co.uk/article.php3?table
=old&section=current&issue=2002-08-17&id=2158
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« Last Edit: Sep 2nd, 2002 at 6:18pm by World News »  
 
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African nations ban biofood aid despite famine
Reply #1 - Aug 24th, 2002 at 8:06pm
 
San Francisco Chronicle, Aug 23, 2002

Johannesburg -- Millions of Africans in dire need of food aid may go hungry because the leaders of several drought- and famine-wracked nations say they cannot accept genetically modified grain from the United States -- the very same product that Americans have been eating for years.

With world leaders gathering in Johannesburg for next week's World Summit on Sustainable Development, diplomats and aid agencies were stunned by recent decisions by the governments of Zambia and Zimbabwe to reject shipments of donated genetically modified grain.

Malawi has also expressed strong reservations over the grain, and Mozambique, through whose ports much of the food aid will travel, has placed stringent and costly restrictions on any genetically modified shipments passing through its territory.

COMPLEX CAUSES

The objections appear to turn on several factors: disinformation by governments eager to deflect attention from their own poor performances; anti- Western views within the affected countries; and worries that biotech food companies will demand payment if their products are planted and grown in recipient nations.

As the controversy expands, 13 million people across Africa are facing a slow death from starvation. Aid agencies report that desperate families are eating the last of their livestock, watchdogs and, in extreme cases, grass and leaves.

The United Nations says very young children are the most severely affected; thousands are expected to die because their mothers are too malnourished to provide milk.

At least 10 million people are infected with HIV-AIDS on the continent, and the mortality rate is expected to drastically increase as lack of food further weakens those already ill.

John Stremlau, a former U.S. diplomat who is a senior member of the South African Institute for International Relations, believes the obstacles are politically motivated.

"These objections are completely misguided and clearly political," he said. "The drought may be a natural phenomenon, but the famine is entirely man-made."

Stremlau says ruinous economic policies in Zimbabwe and corruption and inefficiency in Zambia and Malawi have destroyed food self-sufficiency in the region.

In Malawi earlier this month, the government belatedly sacked the minister of poverty alleviation, Leonard Mangulama, after it turned out that he had sold the country's strategic maize reserves -- 166,000 tons worth -- and allegedly pocketed the cash. Malawi is the worst famine-afflicted country, with hundreds already dead and 3 million on the verge of starvation.

Zimbabwe, which until recently exported maize to neighboring countries, continues to force white farmers off their land to make way for ruling party militants and cronies of authoritarian President Robert Mugabe.

The mostly white-owned commercial agricultural sector has been devastated by the evictions, and farms have been unable to plant seed for next year's crops.

On Thursday, Zimbabwe said it would accept 17,000 tons of American whole maize meal but mill it first to prevent any chance of contaminating domestic maize crops with genetically modified varieties.

In Zambia, where 1.75 million people face starvation according to the United Nations, President Levy Mwanawasa recently declared, "We would rather starve than get something toxic."

Such stances anger Jason Lott, a visiting American academic affiliated with the bioethics department at Johannesburg's Witwatersrand University.

"These countries are rife with corruption and are trying to push the blame for their own inadequacies onto the World Food Program and the U.S. Agency for International Development," he said.

Lott has researched a conspiracy theory, circulating in southern Africa, which claims that the World Food Program and USAID serve as fronts for American biotech food corporations trying to unload produce they cannot sell at home.

"These governments have latched onto this theory because it detracts from their own bad management," Lott said.

Many of the conspiracy stories originate with fringe lobbying groups in Europe, where suspicion of genetically modified foods is high.

"The attitude of 'better to starve than eat GM (genetically modified) corn' reflects a luxury until now reserved for picky Europeans and radical U.S. academics," Lott said.

"It is an ill-informed debate that is having pragmatic consequences here in Africa," he said. "In Europe, people have choices. If they don't want to eat biotech foods, they can eat something else. In this part of Africa, where people are dying from hunger, there is no 'something else.' "

With humanitarian aid agencies lobbying hard to get relief supplies into the region, USAID chief Andrew Natsios said Tuesday that every effort was being made to calm the fears of affected governments.

"My children and my wife and I have been eating genetically modified maize for the last seven years, and so have most Americans," he told a news conference in Washington, D.C. "And, I might add, most Canadians and Brazilians and Argentinians and Chinese and Indians."


U.S. SET TO SEND 500,000 TONS
Natsios said the United States was prepared to donate around 70 percent, or 500,000 tons, of the total food needed to stave off widespread starvation, with Europe making up most of the rest.

Another issue impeding resolution of the crisis is the belief by officials in several affected nations that small farmers may end up being liable for patent royalties to be paid to the mostly American agribusiness firms that dominate the genetically modified field.

The officials argue that subsistence farmers will withhold some of the donated grain seeds to plant for next year and that African countries could be forced to spend millions of dollars in precious foreign currency to pay for the crops.

Mozambique's worries over the issue have led to its insistence that all modified produce landing at its ports must be transported to its famine- stricken neighbors -- and its own starving populace -- in sealed trucks that will prevent the accidental escape of seeds.

Support for this view comes from SafeAge, a South African lobbying group fighting the introduction of genetically modified crops into the region.

"These countries are right to reflect deeply as to whether they should accept these products," said SafeAge's director, Glen Ashton. "If genetically engineered grains get planted, then the owners, the patent holders of these plants, can go into Africa and claim the crops as their own. It would be nothing more than biological imperialism."

Said Stremlau: "The suspicions regarding the West run extremely deep in this region. Together with bad management, this distrust mixes up a devil's brew of problems for anyone wanting to come in and provide assistance."

However, Monsanto Co., one of the largest global biotech food producers and a frequent target of the anti-genetic foods lobby, denies it will lay claim to produce harvested by small farmers.

Modified foodstuffs are already used in abundance in South Africa, says Andrew Bennett, lead biotechnologist for Monsanto in Johannesburg.

"These governments have screwed up and are looking for someone to blame," he said. "Their people are starving and need food. This should not even be the subject of discussion at a time like this."

Bennett says chances of Monsanto pursuing any intellectual property rights complaints are "slim."

"In much of Africa, intellectual property rights are ignored anyway," he said. "The chances of getting a case to court are zero."

Any "contamination" of local crops would only be to the benefit of poor farmers, Bennett contended.

"Our products are resistant to disease and insects; they create higher yields," he said. "If anyone plants our stuff, they are certainly not going to complain once they see the result."

©2002 San Francisco Chronicle.

Reproduced from:
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi
?f=/c/a/2002/08/23/MN129529.DTL
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